How to shoot a big moon. Learning to photograph the Moon

David Naughton, renowned landscape photographer and Canon Ambassador, explains how to capture the longest lunar eclipse of this century.

On Friday, July 27, 2018, we will experience the longest lunar eclipse of this century, during which the Moon will turn blood red. This astronomical phenomenon will last a total of 1 hour and 43 minutes, starting from sunset and moonrise over Europe.

A lunar eclipse is a phenomenon when the Earth blocks sunlight and the Moon appears in its shadow. The moon will turn red due to an effect known as Rayleigh scattering (also called elastic scattering), where green and violet wavelengths are filtered out by the atmosphere.

It will be possible to see the “blood” Moon from different parts of the continent, but in southeastern Europe the phenomenon will last longer, since there the satellite will be higher in the sky during the eclipse.

Canon Ambassador and renowned landscape photographer David Naughton shares five tips to help you capture such rare and unusual sights.

Download special applications

The position of the Sun in the sky at a certain time of day depends only on the latitude of the observation point and the time of year. However, with the Moon, everything is somewhat different - its apparent movement across the sky is determined by the complex elliptical orbit of the Earth. Changes in the Moon's trajectory depend not on the annual cycle, but on the monthly cycle, which is why the time of the Moon's appearance and its trajectory change so much.

Fortunately, to calculate the movement of the Moon, you no longer need to fiddle with astronomical tables - you just need to download the application to your smartphone. For example, the Photographer’s Ephemeris application will tell you the time of moonrise and moonset, its azimuths and phases; and the Photopills app provides detailed information about the Moon's position in the sky.

Using these two apps I'm planning a Blood Moon shoot in Dorset, England. I want to capture it in the first 15 minutes after sunrise, while it is still low in the sky - then I can frame some object on the horizon, such as a tree on a hill, to reflect the scale of the celestial body.

Use a telephoto lens

One of the main problems I will have to solve on July 27 is how to photograph the Moon so close that every crater on the asteroid-pocked surface is visible. Typically, such problems are solved by astronomers with super-powerful telescopes. However, a telephoto lens with a focal length of around 600mm on a full frame camera can also capture impressive shots. I'll be shooting with a Canon EOS 5D Mark IV with an EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM Ext lens. 1.4x.

Use a tripod

As you frame your shot, you'll find that the Moon moves across the sky with unexpected speed and is surprisingly difficult to follow through the lens. Since you'll be using a long lens, it's important to choose a tripod that's stable and allows you to capture the best possible footage. If you want to shoot handheld, keep in mind that the subject is located more than 384,000 kilometers away from you and even with a fast shutter speed the slightest movement will ruin the frame.

Incorporate the Moon into the landscape


Don't forget about composition. While detailed, close-up shots of the Moon can be beautiful, they are essentially only of astronomical value. The Moon attracts me much more when it is part of the landscape or serves as a source of light when shooting. Achieving the latter is quite difficult, since the amount of light reflected by the Moon is small and in comparison with it the lunar surface itself turns out to be very bright. Until recently night photography inevitably required very long shutter speeds, but the amazing light sensitivity of cameras like the EOS-1D X Mark II and Canon EOS 5D Mark IV opened up a whole new world for photographers. new world night shooting.

Choose a shutter speed that suits your story

The Moon looks most expressive and natural in a landscape when it is surrounded by a slightly illuminated sky. Such photographs turn out to be realistic, they are full of charm and a special mood.


In any shot taken from a medium or wide angle, the Moon will appear as a pinhead-sized blob of light, but its presence will still be felt. She naturally attracts the eye, even if it seems like an insignificant detail. Of course, you will need to find the right shutter speed: if it is too slow, then even when shooting with a wide-angle lens, the photo will only leave an unsightly blurry trail.

On a clear night, a good choice of shutter speed - necessary condition for shooting the Moon. A shutter speed of 1/250 sec at f8 and ISO 100 (depending on focal length) will avoid blur and ensure a technically flawless shot. When shooting with a camera high class, for example the Canon EOS 5DS R, you might even be able to see those twelve cameras that were left on the moon by NASA astronauts in the 1960s!

About David Naughton

Author of many breathtaking landscapes and views from different parts of the world, multiple winner of the title BBC Photographer of the Year - wildlife", David has been the best in his field for over thirty years. At the age of 60, he still travels and shoots landscapes. For Canon equipment, the EOS 5DS R and EOS 5D Mark IV cameras and the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II lens USM.

Thank you for the material provided

Publication date: 11.06.2015

The Moon is a beautiful and mysterious satellite of our planet. You can just admire her, or you can try to take interesting shots with her participation.

In this article, we will analyze the creative aspects of shooting the night luminary, learn how to take the clearest pictures possible, and how to beautifully and expressively show the queen of the night in the frame.

What does a photographer need to know about the Moon?

Traffic schedule. The Moon is a natural satellite of the Earth. As in the case of the Sun, the inhabitants of our planet can observe its sunrises and sunsets. It moves across the sky on its own schedule and can rise both late at night and during the day. To take beautiful photos, you need to know this schedule.

Why does the moon glow? Moon phases. The moon or part of it begins to glow when the light of the Sun is reflected from it. When the relative positions of the Earth, Sun and Moon change, the boundary between the illuminated and unilluminated parts of the Moon’s disk shifts. Therefore, the illuminated part can grow or shrink.

Everyone knows that the Moon can be full, or it can appear before us as a crescent. There are eight key phases of the moon.

New Moon: The moon is not visible.
Young Moon (Waxing crescent).
First quarter: Half of the Moon is illuminated.
Waxing gibbous: More than half of the lunar disk is illuminated.
Full Moon: The moon is fully illuminated.
Waning Gibbous: More than half of the Moon is illuminated; The illuminated area of ​​the lunar disk gradually decreases.
Last quarter: Half of the Moon is illuminated.
Old Moon (Waning crescent)

The phases of the Moon give only a general idea of ​​how much of it will be illuminated by the Sun on certain days. For example, the first and last quarter will include both 70% of the illuminated area and 95%. Therefore, the area of ​​the illuminated part of the Moon is often measured as a percentage of its total area. On a full moon this is about 100%, and with a thin month in the sky - a few percent.

Size and color of the Moon. Big Moon Illusion. The surface of the Moon itself is gray. Reflecting sunlight, it becomes yellowish. Also, the lunar disk can change its color due to the Earth’s atmosphere (passing through the air). Sometimes the Moon rising above the horizon turns bright red, making it appear much larger. Note that this is the best time for a photographer to create beautiful shots with the Moon.

NIKON D810 / 70.0-200.0 mm f/4.0 SETTINGS: ISO 800, F8, 1/8 s, 400.0 mm equiv.

We plan the shooting: choose the time, place and conditions

First, you need to decide which phase of the moon you want to photograph. Any lunar calendar will help you get acquainted with the schedule of the Moon’s movement across the sky. The ideal option would be special programs for photographers that track the movement of celestial bodies. It is convenient to use the TPE web application on your computer.

Please note: when it is deep night and the Moon is high above the horizon, you can get boring shots of the lunar disk without any interesting plot or background. In my opinion, such photographs will be of interest only to astronomers. And they have already seen the lunar surface thousands of times.

To be able to fit the Moon into some kind of landscape, photograph it against the backdrop of a city, nature or clouds, it is better to photograph it at dusk. Wait until the Moon is rising or setting (just after sunset or just before sunrise).

On the other hand, if you just want to photograph the Moon against a black background, then it is best to photograph late at night in clear weather, when the Moon is high above the horizon.

Shooting the Moon at dusk allows you to photograph it not by itself against a black background, but to fit it into the surrounding reality.

NIKON D810 SETTINGS: ISO 100, F8, 1/3 sec, 400.0 mm eq.

By personal experience: either the full Moon or a thin moon with less than 15% of the illuminated part looks most expressive in the frame.

It is important to choose the right shooting point. To take an interesting photo, find a place with a good view. The programs mentioned above will help determine where the Moon will rise from. In the city, you can choose some elevated point with a view of its attractions. In my case, they were the Ostankino Tower and the Zhivopisny Bridge. It is advisable to arrive at the shooting location in advance, because the rising Moon “jumps out” from the horizon very quickly, so you will have very little time for shooting - a few tens of minutes.

Necessary photographic equipment

Let's make a list of photographic equipment that will definitely be useful for photographing the Moon.

  • Camera with manual settings

Photographing the Moon is a rather complex task, so it is better to adjust at least some of the parameters yourself. It's good if the camera has a wide dynamic range. This will help when shooting the Moon against the background of other objects - it will not be overexposed, and the background will not be too dark. SLR cameras are perfect for such shooting: both the simplest (for example Nikon D3300, Nikon D5500) and advanced models (Nikon D750 or Nikon D810).

Hyperzoom compacts (for example, Nikon COOLPIX P900). They have manual settings and such a zoom that DSLRs have never dreamed of. The same P900 can provide a magnification equivalent to a full-frame DSLR lens with a focal length of 2000 mm.

  • Lens

If you want to show the Moon large enough in the frame, then you need to use telephoto lens. The longer the focal length of the lens, the larger the Moon will be shown in the frame. The footage for the article was filmed Nikon lens 70-200mm f/4G ED AF-S VR Nikkor with NIKON AF-S TC-20E III 2x teleconverter. The focal length in photographs is 400 mm. A good compact and budget telephoto lens is the Nikon 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom-Nikkor.

NIKON D810 / 70.0-200.0 mm f/4.0 SETTINGS: ISO 640, F8, 1/2 s, 350.0 mm equiv.

Don't forget: the longer the focal length, the more difficult it will be to get quality shots. But more on that below.

NIKON D810 / 70.0-200.0 mm f/4.0 SETTINGS: ISO 400, F7.1, 1 s, 110.0 mm equiv.

The moon can also be photographed with wide-angle optics. At the same time, she will not be so large in the frame, but in this case you can show some landscape with her in the photo. It is appropriate to use lenses with a focal length of about 35 mm for full frame or 28 mm for “crop”. That is, almost any universal or kit zoom lens is suitable for such shooting.

  • Tripod

If you want to get high-quality, sharp pictures of the night light, then you will definitely need a tripod. An exception would be shooting the Moon during the day using standard or wide-angle optics. During regular hours (early morning or late evening) and at night, photography of the Moon takes place at shutter speeds long enough for handheld photography (you may experience some “shaking” from shaking the camera in your hands). If you work with telephoto lenses with a focal length of more than 300 mm, then it is advisable to use a tripod even during the day. Otherwise there will be some lubrication. After all, the narrower the viewing angle of the lens (the closer it zooms), the more the image in the viewfinder will “shake”. When shooting with a telephoto lens, a tripod is needed to stabilize the image. It must be very powerful, capable of holding the equipment reliably, without hesitation.

  • Remote control

He will become useful accessory when shooting from a tripod. The remote control is needed in order to avoid camera vibrations when pressing the shutter button. This way we will insure ourselves against getting blurry shots. If you don’t have a remote control, you can set the camera to self-timer so that at least a few seconds pass between pressing the shutter button and the actual shooting. If your camera, like Nikon D5200, Nikon D5300 or Nikon D7200, supports remote control via Wi-Fi, your smartphone can serve as a remote control.

Shooting options. Technical difficulties and ways to solve them

Newbie problem #1. “Wiggle” when shooting handheld. Beginning photographers hold the camera in their hands or on a flimsy, shaky tripod. And if they take photographs with a telephoto lens (with a large zoom), they almost always get a blurry image. To shoot handheld at close range, you need to greatly reduce the shutter speed. That is, when shooting with a telephoto lens, the maximum shutter speed should be shorter than 1/250 s. Optical image stabilization will help you get sharp shots. If your lens has a switch labeled VR, IS, or Optical steady shot, set it to ON.

How to calculate the maximum allowable shutter speed when shooting handheld is described in one of our lessons.

If you are a beginner and did not understand anything from the previous paragraph, since for now you only use automatic mode and scene programs, to photograph the Moon with a strong “zoom”, select the “Sports” scene program - it guarantees shooting at a short shutter speed. If you're shooting the moon general plan, without a strong “zoom”, you can use the “Night Landscape” plot program.

Problem #2. The moon moves across the sky. How is moon photography different from other landscape photography? Because we are shooting a very fast moving object. If you photograph it at a long shutter speed, it will blur.

How to correctly determine the maximum shutter speed for shooting the Moon so that it comes out clearly? Usually, shutter speed is determined experimentally by taking test shots. General pattern is simple: the longer the lens you have, the shorter the shutter speed is needed. Therefore, it is very difficult to photograph with super telephoto lenses - the Moon literally flies across the frame - have time to catch it. In this case, the shutter speeds will be quite short.

Those familiar with astrophotography know about the “600 rule” for determining the maximum shutter speed when shooting stars (if the number 600 is divided by the equivalent focal length, we get the optimal shutter speed in seconds). But when shooting the Moon, this rule will not work, because it moves across the sky faster than the stars.

To take a high-quality photograph of the Moon with a telephoto lens, it is recommended to use shutter speeds shorter than 1 s. If we take pictures with normal lenses, then the maximum shutter speed can be 2-3 seconds without loss of sharpness. Since we take photographs at relatively short shutter speeds in night or twilight conditions, the ISO will have to be raised. From my own experience, I will say that shooting the Moon usually takes place at ISO 400–800.

Problem #3. Exposure settings and lack of dynamic range. We've already mentioned this problem: at night, the Moon is brighter than anything around it in the frame. Therefore, the photographer will have to choose - to show either the Moon or the surrounding landscape in the photo, greatly overexposing the night star. When shooting at night, you only have to choose between these two evils. Illustrations of both situations have already been found in the article. Let's look at them again:

The exposure is set to the Moon. Its surface is not overexposed. However, I had to say goodbye to the heavens: in their place there was blackness.

If you shoot at night with a telephoto lens, focus on the Moon, show all the details on it. If you're shooting with a wide-angle lens, it's best to focus on the landscape.

To avoid such a choice, it is necessary to choose lighting conditions under which the contrast between the Moon and environment not so high. This is, first of all, twilight - the time when the Moon is already beginning to glow, but not yet as brightly as at night.

The dynamic range of the camera can be slightly expanded. This will allow you to preserve more details of different brightness in the frame. If you shoot in JPEG, then Nikon provides Active D-Lighting technology to expand the dynamic range.

Also, some cameras allow you to create HDR images (for stitching together several frames with different exposures). Remember that the Moon moves relatively quickly across the sky. And to ensure that the final HDR image is not blurred, each individual frame will have to be taken at much shorter shutter speeds.

How to determine the correct exposure when shooting the Moon? I don't think anyone managed to get a perfectly exposed shot the first time. In such difficult conditions, any exposure metering method can fail. Always take test shots and adjust the exposure based on them, making the next shots either darker or lighter. Use the Live View screen so you can see the future brightness of the frame directly on the camera display. In order not to depend on the vagaries of automation, it is best to shoot in manual mode, independently controlling all shooting parameters.

It is convenient to use exposure bracketing. This function will allow you to take several (from 2 to 9) frames with different exposure (brightness). From this series of frames, you can select the most accurately exposed one and work with it. You can also combine your footage using HDR or exposure blending on your computer.

In conclusion, I would like to wish the readers interesting shootings and daring photo experiments! Remember, the ability to take photographs does not end with the ability to press buttons on the camera. You need to find interesting subjects to shoot and choose good conditions for photographing. Pay attention to preparation for shooting and planning. This is the key to successful shots.

This post was written by Laura Charon. Laura is a passionate photographer. At first she used some old camera, and more recently - a Canon 400d.

Most photographers enjoy photographing the Moon. Everyone has the same conditions: a DSLR, a tripod, a timer (or a device for remote shutter release) and a bright moon in the sky. However, the result is often an overexposed spot on a black background. A flat disk or gray picture without crater detail.

Catch some tips that I can give based on own experience shooting the moon.

1. "Lune/Moon", OliBac, Flickr
Shutter speed: 0.005 sec (1/200), aperture: F/5, focal length: 84.2 mm, ISO: 50

So, tips:

First: Use a telephoto lens

At least 300mm if you want to fill the entire frame with the Moon. Although, in principle, the Moon can be photographed with a regular lens, even with a whale. A 2x converter will not be superfluous; it perfectly complements the lens and at the same time is quite inexpensive.

Second: Set up your camera manually

Although many digital cameras have an automatic setting for night shots, manually setting ISO, shutter speed and aperture will produce significantly better photos. Start with ISO 100. The moon is a source of light, and brighter than you think. You can use high ISOs without fear of noise. Set your aperture to around f/11 (a wider aperture will result in a less sharp image). A shutter speed of 1/125 will be enough. We'll call this a "rule", but you can of course experiment with the settings. Try shooting with manual focus. Cameras sometimes have problems auto-focusing on the moon. Take several shots with different aperture and shutter speed settings.

2. "The Bird and the Moon II", Flowery Luza, Flickr
Shutter speed: 0.001 sec (1/1000), Aperture: f/4.0, focal length: 200 mm, ISO: 1600

Tip Three: Don't Be Afraid of Underexposed Shots

Surely at normal settings you will get a long shutter speed. After all, you are taking pictures at night. But in reality, such endurance is not needed. You'll struggle to get everything just right during processing, and keep in mind that the Moon moves across the sky and even at a shutter speed of 1/15 the image may come out a little blurry.


3. "Crescent Moon", Lrargerich, Flickr
Shutter speed: 0.008 sec (1/125), aperture: F/4, focal length: 29.2 mm, ISO: 125

Tip four: Shoot different phases of the moon

Each phase of the moon has its own mood. During a full moon there will be more light than during a waxing or aging moon. This is probably even intuitive. It's also great to photograph the Moon at various stages of its motion. The moon appears larger on the horizon. Taking photos early in the evening also often produces pleasant results thanks to creative lighting effects.

I hope these simple tips will help you have a lot of fun photographing the Moon. Despite the fact that the topic of photographing the Moon is quite hackneyed, this bright disk never ceases to arouse interest and attract the attention of our eyes and our lenses.

Original: Laura Charon, photodoto.com

The moon can be large and bright in the night sky, but during shooting and when viewing the photo, it appears completely faded, small and completely unnoticeable. As a result, instead of a large and beautiful moon, we get only a faded white speck on a black background.

Fortunately, you can take a high-quality photograph of the moon if you know a few subtleties. The main thing in such shooting is to set up the camera correctly.

One of the first rules in photographing the moon is to use a telescopic lens. IN in this example A Sigma 50-500mm long-focus lens was used. If you don’t have such a model in your collection, then you can rent similar optics from a photographic equipment store or from a photographer friend.

You will also need a tripod while shooting. A tripod will help prevent camera shake and blur in your Moon photos. Also, do not forget to check the weather forecast in advance - you can photograph the moon only in clear, cloudless weather. In addition, find information about the phases of the moon, find out when the moon rises, and at what time it will be brightest.

If you live in big city, where city light can interfere with photography, is not the best place to photograph celestial objects. Try to go to the countryside for moon photography, where the air will be fresh and the lights will not be a hindrance.

For photography, it's best to set your camera to shoot in RAW format to get the brightest, clearest images. The quality of such photos will help you edit your photos without losing sharpness. When processing RAW images, the Moon will retain its texture, detail and remain sharp.

These guidelines should be enough for you to take a photo of a beautiful moon. A little later, in our tutorial we will tell you how to insert the resulting Earth satellite into any image using Photoshop, thereby creating magnificent landscape photographs. Photographing a night cityscape with the moon is a difficult task, so the most reasonable and in a simple way will add the moon using a graphics editor.

Find out the phase of the moon

Check the lunar calendar and find out what phase the Moon is in at the moment. For complete information on the Moon's position, visit Moonconnection.com. With all the information you need, you can plan your shoot in advance by choosing a night when there is a full moon. A completely full moon will look most attractive in the frame.

Select Lens

A telescopic lens is important when photographing the lunar surface. The lens used in this case, the 50-500mm from Sigma, is ideal. A tripod will allow you to hold the camera in place, and the remote shutter release will allow you to take a clear, blur-free shot. It would be a good idea to set a timer.

Take a photo

Switch your camera to manual mode and use manual focus on the lens. When choosing camera settings, there are two key factors, which will help you take a high-quality photo. Since the moon is bright during a full moon, you can use a low ISO, but the brightness of the subject and being very close to the subject allows you to shoot at relatively fast shutter speeds. The following values ​​were used in the example: shutter speed 1/200 sec., aperture f/10 and sensitivity ISO200.

Use Live View

At night, focusing through the viewfinder will not be easy, so feel free to turn on Live View mode and work through the LCD display.

If the moon is bright orange in your photos, switch the white balance from auto to tungsten or cloudy.

If you missed the full moon, it's okay. You still have the opportunity to take a great photo of the crescent moon. A new moon or crescent moon can look great in photographs.

How to Take a Photo of the Moon and Add It to Other Night Photos

Using the Photoshop graphics editor, you can add a shot of the Moon to any other image.

Getting started

Launch Photoshop. Open the desired moon shot and the image you want to add a moon shot to. It is important that there is a large expanse of dark sky in this photograph.

Cut out the moon

With the Moon photo selected, use the lasso tool. Use a lasso to trace the outline of the Moon. Press Ctrl + C to copy and cut the earth's satellite.

The question of how to photograph the Moon is not as simple as it initially seems. It doesn’t matter whether you photograph the Moon with a DSLR, a system camera or a point-and-shoot camera, in reality it is very often impossible to obtain any acceptable result. In this material we will look at how to photograph the Moon and avoid common mistakes.

The question of how to photograph the Moon is not as simple as it initially seems. It doesn’t matter whether you photograph the Moon with a DSLR, a system camera or a point-and-shoot camera, in reality it is very often impossible to obtain any acceptable result. In this material we will look at how to photograph the Moon and avoid common mistakes.

What mistakes occur when photographing the Moon?

First, let's look at which typical mistakes a photographer comes across who wants to photograph the Moon. Perhaps the first difficulty for a photographer is choosing the right exposure pair, that is, the ratio of aperture and shutter speed. Some novice photographers try to shoot the Moon with a long shutter speed and low ISO, while others try to shoot in aperture priority mode or program mode. In both cases, the results of photographing the Moon are disappointing: in the first case, you get a blurry “something” instead of the lunar disk (do not forget that at long exposures the camera is firmly fixed, and the Moon moves across the sky), and in the second we have an overexposed white circle, devoid of any - details.

So, how to properly photograph the Moon? Well, let's try to consider this issue in more detail and try to determine the algorithm of actions and technical means, which we will need for this kind of shooting.

What do we need to photograph the Moon at night?

First, let’s dispel the popular myth among photographers that you can only photograph the moon well with a tripod. Of course, a tripod can be a useful addition, but you can do without it. The only consideration when photographing the moon close up may be to have a long lens. In principle, the minimum focal length for photographing the lunar disk can be considered 300 mm. By the way, you can photograph the Moon not only with a DSLR or a system camera with interchangeable optics, but also with ultrasound, and the result with a competent approach will also be very impressive.

In order to photograph the Moon and not overexpose the frame, it is worth remembering that the night star is in practice a much brighter object than we think. This illusion of relatively low brightness “deceives” not only the human eye, but also the camera’s automation, which, when shooting in aperture priority mode or program mode, sets the shutter speed too long. For this reason, when shooting, try to set the shutter speed manually, using spot metering on the lunar disk, or, using aperture priority mode, feel free to set the “minus” exposure compensation by one and a half to two steps. In this case, you should shoot in RAW mode and then, when processing in a converter, further reduce the brightness of the highlights. This is the only way to “stretch out” the texture of the lunar disk. So, let's figure out step by step how to take pictures and set up the camera (now we will talk about photographing the Moon close-up, and not a night landscape):

  1. Install a long-focal lens on the camera or, if using an “ultrazoom”, set it to the maximum focal length.
  2. Secure the camera on a tripod (we repeat that this condition is not mandatory, since the shutter speed when shooting is not very long, but it is desirable - nevertheless, the risk of getting a frame with “shaky” will be lower). If you shoot handheld, you can turn on the stabilizer if your digital camera has one.
  3. Set the camera sensitivity to the minimum value (as practice shows, 100 ISO is a quite suitable value for photographing the Moon at night).
  4. Select RAW mode to save the resulting images (of course, if your camera supports this image recording format).
  5. Use the mode dial to select either aperture priority mode (A) or manual mode (M).
  6. Activate the exposure compensation mode by entering a negative value of 1.5-2 stops (it is optimal to use a correction of 2 “stops”).
  7. Take a photo. If there are overexposures, adjust the exposure compensation value or close the aperture by one or two values. By the way, it is better to photograph the Moon with average aperture values, from 5.6 to 8.

Results:

As you can see, photographing the Moon at night is not a very difficult task, but it requires a somewhat specific approach. When using a film camera, the situation is complicated by the inability to view the resulting frame in advance and make adjustments, if necessary. Here we can advise one thing - when photographing the Moon on film, take several “sighting” pictures in advance using digital ones. However, with proper experience in this type of filming, you will no longer need this. We hope this short material will help you avoid mistakes when shooting the Moon and allow you to take more interesting shots.